Banana and green pepper ice cream, sorrel and coffee


“We started putting things together in small batches and churning just for our own edification," Roo Buckley said of his experimental ice cream. (Mark Mulville/Buffalo News)


Roo Buckley"s adventurous ice creams, top row, from left: Curried Sauerkraut, Stuffed Banana Pepper, Triple Berry Jerkalicious, Fire Cider; bottom row from left: Beet Banana Horseradish, Moldy Brownie, Super Spicy Pickle, Chipotle Hot Chocolate, (Mark Mulville/Buffalo News)

Buckley, a former Rue Franklin cook who owned the Coda and now works at Hamburg’s Carte Blanche, has been serving some of the wildest ice cream flavors anywhere for 15 years.

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Customers who dare can experience amazement, thought-provoking flavor encounters, or dismay -- sometimes all in the same flight of scoops. What’s certain is you cannot try it anywhere else.

Why should diners have lớn wait for dessert khổng lồ enjoy the ecstasy of ice cream? When Buckley opened the Coda in 2005, he tried a Dijon mustard ice cream to lớn accompany gazpacho, using a recipe from French star chef Alain Passard.

That led lớn a tomato ice cream for a halibut entrée, which led to open season on bold flavors, brainstorming with assistant Brett Young.

“We started putting things together in small batches and churning just for our own edification," Buckley said. "If something worked well, we’d do a larger batch & offer it to lớn friends in the dining room.”

About six months in, after developing Moldy Brownie (chocolate và blue cheese), Coda started offering Chef’s Experimental Ice Cream Flight.

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Buffalo Philharmonic Orchestra Music Director JoAnn Faletta started bringing guest soloists from BPO Saturday night concerts khổng lồ Coda, adjacent to lớn Kleinhans Music Hall.

“She would always ask, ‘How many flavors tonight, chef?’” Buckley recalled. “On more than one occasion, we managed lớn produce 36 flavors for the Maestra and her guests.”

Buckley is Carte Blanche’s wine director today, but his love of provocative ice cream remains undimmed.

For $9, guests recently had the chance lớn try flavors lượt thích Fire Cider (cider, ginger, Frank’s hot sauce), Tripleberry Jerkalicious, Yellow Curry Sauerkraut, Beet Banana Horseradish, Super Spicy Pickle, Stuffed Banana Pepper, & Chipotle Hot Chocolate.

Curried ChocolatePeanut Butter Roasted GarlicStrawberry ParmesanSummer in Provence (pastis, lemon, raspberry, lavender)Apricot HalvahTea with the Shah (Earl Grey, Saffron)Strawberry SambalBlueberry WasabiJerusalem Souk (tahini, date honey, saffron, rosewater, pistachio)

INFO: Carte Blanche, 61 Buffalo St., Hamburg. 649-2101. Hours: 4 lớn 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m. To lớn 2 p.m. 4 khổng lồ 10 p.m. Saturday, 10 a.m. Khổng lồ 2 p.m., 5 to 8 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday.

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