Three pâtés to satisfy every palate

      25

Both rustic and refined, Pâté de Campagne, or country pâté, could be called the cornerstone of charcuterie. Every chef worth their salt has his or hers own take on this French classic. We compare two cooking methods: the traditional bain-marie and modern sous vide.

Bạn đang xem: Three pâtés to satisfy every palate

A Collaboration


*

Evan Brady


The following represents a collaboration between Our Daily Brine và New York-based chef, Evan Brady. Evan, owner of Craft Butchers’ Pantry, & I met through the Sausage Debauchery group on Facebook (an excellent group, if you’re interested in making salumi). Evan và I cốt truyện an obvious love for all things charcuterie và salumi, but found our common interests delve much deeperinto the scientific approach and understanding of gastronomy. This recipe for pâté de Campagne was developed by Evan.

It’s a Farce

Pâté de Campagne’s humble beginnings can be traced back to lớn medieval Europe, when it was common to lớn cook a farce—or “magic meat mix”, as Julia would say—of chopped meat(s), fat & seasoning inside a pastry crust or fat-lined earthenware. Throughout the centuries French cooks have refined the preparation ofpâtés and terrines.The variations of pâtéspan the gamut of refinement: from rustic, hand-chopped offal to decadent variations incorporating foie gras or truffle garnish.

Farce (def.): A highly seasoned mixture containing chopped meat, forcemeat is an alteration of farcemeat, “stuffing,” & has a synonym—farce. Farce first meant forcemeat stuffing và came to lớn be used metaphorically when a humorous play was “stuffed” in between two more serious acts of the main theatrical presentation.1

In common vernacular a terrine is typically served from the terrine it was molded in, where a pâté is unmolded và served as a sliced loaf. According khổng lồ the bible of French gastronomy, Larousse Gastonomique, “the word pâtéon its own should, strictly speaking, be applied only lớn a dish consisting of a pastry case (pie shell) filled with meat, fish, vegetables or fruit … apâtéen terrineis a meat, game or fish preparation put into a dish (terrine) lined with bacon, cooked in the oven & always served cold.” They go on to say “The correct French abbreviation of this isterrine, but in common usage the French also call it apâté.”2— needless khổng lồ say, the terms are often usedsynonymously.

De Campagne Deconstructed

Pâté de Campagne takes many forms. At its core it is a mixture of ground meats; pork & veal are classic, occasionally with ham, or as in this recipe, bacon—and always with liver. Unlike a liver pâté, pâté de Campagne uses liver as a flavoring, not the focus. Meats are typically chopped, or ground with a meat grinder, for the characteristic coarse texture of a country pâté. Spices often include garlic, thyme, cloves, nutmeg, mace, ginger, coriander, cinnamon & white/black pepper, and more. Interior garnish is also common; examples being: nuts, lượt thích walnuts or pistachios, dried fruits lượt thích cherries, figs or apricots, or the classic and coveted truffle.



*
" data-medium-file="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-160x68.jpg" data-large-file="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-920x393.jpg" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-981 size-large" src="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-920x393.jpg" alt="Pâté de Campagne; a comparison of bain-marie (left) and sous vide (right) methods" width="920" height="393" srcset="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-460x197
2x.jpg 920w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-125x53.jpg 125w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-160x68.jpg 160w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-610x261.jpg 610w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-1280x547.jpg 1280w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-1000x428.jpg 1000w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-230x98
2x.jpg 460w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-310x133.jpg 310w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-230x98.jpg 230w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison.jpg 2000w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-920x393
2x.jpg 1840w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-bain-marie-vs-sous-vide-comparison-610x261
2x.jpg 620w" sizes="(max-width: 920px) 100vw, 920px" />Method comparison: bain-marie (left) and sous vide (right); the sous vide method produced a visibly more compact, even textured pâté


A Modern French Method: Sous Vide

The classic French method of preparing pâté en terrine is by bain-marie. A more modern—yet still French—method for preparing pâté is by cooking en sous vide. Sous vide is, arguably, the better method. The concept is the same: slow, gentle cooking, in a water bath. In a traditional bain-marie we often use some fashion of weight, post cooking, khổng lồ compress the pâtéas it cools. One of the benefits of sous vide, literally “under vacuum”, is that a vacuum is used to seal and compress the farce—both as it cooks and as it cools. Additionally, sous vide allows for more precise cooking; we are able lớn set the water bath to lớn a precise 150ºF/65.5ºC và cook thepâté to lớn equilibrium, never exceeding or overcooking, and allowing for controlled pasteurization.3

Notes on Sous Vide



*
" data-medium-file="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-160x160.jpg" data-large-file="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-920x920.jpg" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-988 size-half-width" src="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-460x460.jpg" alt="Cooking en sous vide water bath; utilizing Nomiku immersion circulator & K-type thermocouple probe" width="460" height="460" srcset="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-230x230
2x.jpg 460w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-125x125.jpg 125w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-160x160.jpg 160w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-920x920.jpg 920w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-610x610.jpg 610w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-1200x1200.jpg 1200w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-250x250.jpg 250w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-1280x1280.jpg 1280w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-1000x1000.jpg 1000w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-310x310.jpg 310w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-230x230.jpg 230w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath.jpg 2000w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-920x920
2x.jpg 1840w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-610x610
2x.jpg 1220w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-cooking-in-sous-vide-water-bath-250x250
2x.jpg 620w" sizes="(max-width: 460px) 100vw, 460px" />Cooking en sous vide water bath; utilizing Nomiku immersion circulator and K-type thermocouple probe


Vacuum Sealing

Sous vide literallyrefers lớn cooking“under vacuum”. Sous vide as a term is commonly used khổng lồ describe the method of cooking with an immersion circulatorto precisely control a water bath, regardless ifthe food has been vacuum sealed or not (eggs are a good example of this). Cookingpâté en sous vide should always be done with a vacuum-sealed terrine. A chamber sealer is ideal, as you can adjust the pressure to high, remove all of the oxygen & tightly compress thepâté. An edge sealer, like a FoodSaver, also works well. The examples shown here are all done with a FoodSaver.

Immersion Circulator

In the past couple years, lower-cost immersion circulators have cometo market. Previously, to cook sous vide required a significant investment in equipment. Thankfully, that’s no longer the case. One of the first lower-cost—yet ample powered—circulators introduced was the Nomiku (pictured upperright). I prefer the Nomiku over the othersub-$300 competitors (several of which I own). It’s by far the smallest, yet powerful enough to keep an uninsulated 5+ gallon/19 Liter water bath within 0.1ºF of target temp. That’s pretty amazing.

Xem thêm: Phần Mềm Chơi Caro Khó Nhất, Download Cờ Caro Khó Nhất, Download Cờ Caro

Terrine or Loaf Pan

When cooking en bain-marie, the best results are had with a dedicated vessel lượt thích a Le Creuset terrine; with sous videthere is no benefit.If cooking sous vide, the typeand sizeof terrine does not matter, as long as it fits in your bath. Here we’ve usedsmall non-stick loaf pans commonly found at most grocery stores. The size is perfect for a charcuterie board.



*
" data-medium-file="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-160x100.jpg" data-large-file="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-920x575.jpg" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-986 size-large" src="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-920x575.jpg" alt="Pâté de Campagne; visible vacuum compression in the finished, chilled pate" width="920" height="575" srcset="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-460x288
2x.jpg 920w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-125x78.jpg 125w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-160x100.jpg 160w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-610x381.jpg 610w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-1280x800.jpg 1280w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-1000x625.jpg 1000w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-230x144
2x.jpg 460w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-310x194.jpg 310w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-230x144.jpg 230w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail.jpg 2000w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-920x575
2x.jpg 1840w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-post-sous-vide-cooking-detail-610x381
2x.jpg 620w" sizes="(max-width: 920px) 100vw, 920px" />Visible vacuum compression in the finished, chilled pate


Cooking Time

Cooking time is wholly dependent upon the size of terrine you use. In order to lớn effectively pasteurize thepâté, itmust be cooked until the coreregisters 150ºF/65.5ºC. After chip core temperature is reached it must be held at temp for at least 1 minute và 10 seconds, allowing for a 6.5D reduction inSalmonella(3).

One of the benefits of cooking sous vide is thatit’s not possible toovercook the pâté.The mini loaf pans took slightly morethan 2 hours lớn reach chip core temperature. If you are unable to lớn monitor the temp with a probe, then you should cook at least 2.5 hours or morefor thesame form size loaf pan and longer the larger the pan. If using an edge sealer (not a chamber sealer), you can always remove the terrine from the bath, cut mở cửa the bagand take a reading. If it has not reached temp, you can reseal & cook for longer. Repeat the process until temp has been reached. If you use a bag with additionallength, you can simply reseal the same bag. Note:Food sealed in a chamber sealer should always be chilled before sealing, or it will boil.

Monitoring bộ vi xử lý core Temperature

The best wayto monitor core temperature of any protein cooked sous vide is with a very accurate thermometer called a thermocouple. I usethe ThermoWorksTW8060 (I’m now using the ThermaQ)with aPTFE/FEP tip probe to monitor the water bath, và a miniature needle probe khổng lồ monitor thepâté temp. The ThermaQthermometer is excellent and allows for a huge array of different type of probes. It’s well worth the relatively small investment.

To monitor temp while under pressure, you will needa needle-thin probe andsome sort of high-density foam tape (like the kind used to lớn seal doors and windows). If using an edge sealer, be sure to lớn seal the pâtéwith the smooth surface of the bag facing up. Use rubbing alcohol to lớn clean the surface where you will apply the tape, letdry. The clean surface willaid inadherence of the tape & prevent contamination when insertingthe probe. Clean your probe with alcohol and insert it through the tape. It will retain the vacuum. Handle carefully as you lower into the bath.

For more information on cooking sous vide please see:Sous Vide Cooking 101

TheBain-Marie Method

If you vì chưng not have access khổng lồ the equipment khổng lồ cook sous vide, excellent results can still be had by cooking in a bain-marie; no doubt, the French, among others, have done sofor hundreds of years. Here’s the basic method:

Preheat the oven lớn 375ºF/190ºC with convection; or 400ºF/200ºC without.Follow the directions (below) until you reach the point of cooking sous vide.Tightly wrap the vị trí cao nhất of the terrine or loaf pan in aluminum foil.Prepare your water bath. Use an oven-proof vessel, like a high-sided roasting pan; big enough to lớn hold your terrineand allow for a good amount of water lớn surround it.Place the filledterrineintoa high-sided roasting pan and địa chỉ cửa hàng enough hot water (as hot as your tap will go) lớn within an inch of the đứng top of the terrine.Transfer bain-marie lớn preheated oven.Immediately turn oven down to lớn 250ºF/120ºC,with convection; or 275ºF/135ºC without.Begin checking temperature after 30 min. (I monitor temperaturein real-time using thewireless iGrill thermometer);when checkingtemperature, bởi vì so by piercing the foil with the thermometer, which prevents the heat from escaping.Cook until center/middle of the pâté registers 150ºF/66ºC.Remove thepâté from the oven, & allow lớn cool for 1 hour, remaining covered by foil; the temperature should stay at150ºF/66ºC for 15+ min., then start lớn decline.Holding at a temperature of 150ºF/65.5ºC for at least 1 minute & 10 seconds allows for a 6.5D reduction in Salmonella 3Weightthe terrineas it cools (I use a cleaned brick, wrapped in aluminum foil); this will compress thepâté và impart the desired, uniform texture.Whilepâté cools, prepare a shallow ice bath for chillingAfter an hour of cooling at room temperature, placethe terrinein the ice bath và chillfor an extra hour.Remove foil from terrine, wrap tightly in plastic wrap và transfer lớn refrigeratorChill overnight

*
" data-medium-file="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-160x204.jpg" data-large-file="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-920x1175.jpg" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-983 size-large" src="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-920x1175.jpg" alt="Pâté de Campagne en Sous Vide Detail" width="920" height="1175" srcset="https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-460x587
2x.jpg 920w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-125x160.jpg 125w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-160x204.jpg 160w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-610x779.jpg 610w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-1280x1635.jpg 1280w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-1000x1277.jpg 1000w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-230x294
2x.jpg 460w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-310x396.jpg 310w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-230x294.jpg 230w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail.jpg 2036w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-920x1175
2x.jpg 1840w, https://nhatroso.com/wp-content/uploads/pate-de-campagne-en-sous-vide-detail-610x779
2x.jpg 620w" sizes="(max-width: 920px) 100vw, 920px" />Pâté de Campagne en Sous Vide Detail



Pâté de Campagne Cooked Sous Vide

Servings: 24Time: 4hrDifficulty: difficult
*

Both rustic & refined, Pâté de Campagne, or country pâté, could be called the cornerstone of charcuterie. Every chef worth their salt has his or hers own take on this French classic. The following details preparation by sous vide method.


Ingredients900g Pork Butt, coarse ground600g to 1,000g Bacon; 300g small dice, plus enough khổng lồ line loaf pan(s) (approx. 300g+)125g Pork liver125g Chicken liver125g Pork kidney100g Onion, puréed2 Eggs, whole125mL Congac125mL Heavy cream5 Garlic cloves, minced35g Sea Salt15g Piment d’Esplette, or similar red pepper flake3g Cure #1 (optional; retains màu sắc and enhances flavor)5g Fresh Thyme Leaves3g black pepper, ground1g Nutmeg, ground1g Mace, ground1g Cloves, ground3 cất cánh leaves, ground


Interior Garnish

6g Green Peppercorns in Brine, drained90g Pistachios, roasted, chopped coarse (optional); and/or đen Truffles (optional)